The drive south from Be’er Sheva towards Sde Boker, the desert kibbutz where David Ben Gurion, one of Israel’s founding fathers retired after serving as the country’s first prime minister, is unique. Unlike many cities around the world in which tall buildings and city buses slowly disappear and give way to wilderness, leaving Be’er Sheva happens suddenly. One second you are in the center of town, the next you are in the middle of a rolling desert. One minute the road is surrounded by concrete and taxi cabs; a minute later it is sand and sky for as far as the eye can see.
Ben Gurion loved the Negev, and he nouraged Israelis to expand the then-young country by moving away from the Tel Aviv metropolis. Although he was active in building the Tel Aviv suburbs of Petach Tikva and Rishon LeZion, as well as several agricultural settlements near the Sea of Galilee, Ben Gurion believed the future of the country lie in the south. He retired from politics in 1953 to move to Kibbutz Sde Boker and lived there until his death in 1973.
Today, Ben Gurion’s desert home is open to the public. The grounds have been preserved as they were when the former prime minister lived there, and it is remarkably simple. The television is still in front of a plain-looking sofa (this is what the first TVs looked like!), the photographs on the wall feature great leaders such as U.S. President Abraham Lincoln and Indian human rights leader Mohandas K. Ghandi, and the small dining table looks like the Ben Gurions are planning to host a dinner party this evening.
Just as the Old Man left it: Ben Gurion's library
By far, the most impressive room in the house is the library, a collection of hundreds, if not thousands, of books in English, German, French and of course Hebrew. Like the living room and kitchen, Ben Gurion’s desk has been left as it was when the room was a center for modern Jewish and Israeli discussion and debate, and the owner’s glases, letter opener (with engraved menorah symbol) and address book are in place.
Ben Gurion often said that he felt most at home surrounded by books, and he had wide range of interests. The library includes several encyclopedia, including the original Encyclopedia Judaica, published shortly before Ben Gurion died, and the Encyclopedia of Islam. Other books include Hebrew, English and French classic literature, traditional Jewish texts, law books and much more.
Next door to Ben Gurion’s home, the Ben Gurion Heritage Institute at Sde Boker has created a gallery dedicated to the former leader, with hundreds of photographs, quotations, artifacts and more, from all periods of his life. Special emphasis is placed on Ben Gurion’s love for his wife, Paula, and the exhibit features several letters written between the couple as the former traveled the world serving as a political leader, and the latter stayed home raising the couple’s three children.
For children, the museum features a “find-it” game in which participants are asked to identify photographs from the permanent exhibit and match them with the relevant quotations. Outside, there are grassy areas that are appropriate for a family picnic or a casual game of Frisbee, with tall trees to provide shade from the strong desert sun. The grounds are very clean and feature several family games.
Other attractions in the area include the magnificent Nachal Zin, a dry riverbed located next door to the kibbutz that is one of the Negev’s premier hiking and camping destinations. There is a bicycle rental agency on the grounds of the kibbutz, and there are two-or-three days worth of trails to explore on foot or on bike in the immediate area. As always, remember to bring enough food and water when exploring in the desert.
Adjacent to the museum there is a small gift and snack shop, featuring crafts by local artisans and wine from the kibbutz winery, as well. Near the parking lot there is another shop with a traditional gift shop, including books by and about Ben Gurion, Negev region tour books, t-shirts, souvenirs and more. Note that there is no restaurant on site, and Be’er Sheva is a 45-minute drive away, so it pays to pack a lunch to enjoy in the natural surroundings.
Ben Gurion’s Desrt Home at Kibbutz Sde Boker is located near the junction of Highway 40 and Route 204, 50 kilometers south of Be’er Sheva. Information available in Hebrew, English, Russian, all European languages and several Asian languages. Tickets are NIS 10 for adults, NIS 7 for children/students/senior citizens/handicapped.
Opening hours are 8:30 am – 4 pm Sunday to Thursday, 8:30 – 2 pm Friday and holiday eves, and 8:30 – 3 pm on Saturdays and holidays. Last admission 30 minutes before closing.
For more information please contact Kibbutz Sde Boker, (08) 656-0469 or via email at palmach@bgu.ac.il. Internet information is available at www.bgh.org.il
